The trick for travelers in Greece is to find the golden mean -- in this case, the balance between environment and history, between crowds and quiet, between ancient and modern. With a bit of planning (and maybe a query to the Oracle), you can find beautiful settings that can soothe your soul, while centuries of art and history invigorate your mind. And very likely, you'll be as charmed by the Greek people as you are by their landscape. During our last trip, we learned the Greek shortcut to communication -- dancing. Growing frustrated with our attempts to speak in rudimentary Greek, an elderly Greek woman in a small island village grabbed us by the arm and began dancing. It was late at night, and we whirled around the terrace by moonlight, barriers dropping by the second.

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